Just received my SM-AFR wideband from PLX devices (nice product). I know how to generally hook it up - it doesn't look too hard, but a few questions: 1) Where to locate the control module? I'm thinking by the ECU in the dash, but wanted to know where others have put theirs. 2) Power will need to be routed from the fuse box (switched). Do I ground it at the ECU?

3) Hondata recommends using the harness adapter from a broken O2 sensor, saying it'll provide the 1 kOhm resistance for the heater to avoid the CEL. I have to wire the 1 kOhm resistor in, correct? Or is it inherent in the adapter plug (which doesn't make sense)?

The Hondata tech paper isn't too clear on this - but the schematics make sense. 4) Going to use the ELD input into the ECU - I don't disable the ELD option in SManager, do I? Any help would be appreciated. All of the sensors ground to a central point for reference(MAP, TPS, etc.). Using the battery or chassis can cause the readings to fluctuate or be off. It's ok to hook up the heater ground to the chassis or battery, since the voltage of that isn't being read and it's a high-current device.

I am new with wideband and I buy PLX sm dm6 combo becauses hondata talk very good about this product. I need help to install the PLX and. On the hondata app. Install and test against AEM UEGO and. Gauges with Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband O2 sensor that lets the. Timer, obd port, PLX devices, drag race.

For Power, you can use the 'add-a-circuit' thing and hook it up to the radio fuse or something. Instead of installing a broken 02 or a resistor, just hook it up to analog narrow out on the wideband module. Putting the module next to the ECU should be ok. I have my LC-1 zip-tied under my dash, out of the way. Almost all wideband systems run independent of the ECU.

They come with their own controller. Very true with the PLX IMFD system. It's standalone, BUT you'll need the additional sensor modules you want to datalog with. It's probably more cost effective from a $$$ standpoint to chip your ECU and datalog from there, since most (if not all) of the sensors you need to log are read there AND it'll give you a method of tuning your engine. What I like and really interested in is PLX's DM-100 gauge, which allows you to display up to four sensors on one gauge. This gauge is THIN, which allows integration into the dash (for the Sol, I'm planning on replacing the clock module with it).

So I'll tune first with the AFR module, then eventually, opt for the DM-100 and the boost sensor and put it in the dash. Then I'll be able to display boost and AFR on ONE gauge, with further expansion possible down the road.

Seems to be a GOOD system, although a little expensive. They're continually developing it, adding new sensors (I'll probably get an IAT and EGT sensor in the future). Password Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive. Password: Confirm Password: Email Address Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

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Thought I would document my install of the PLX wideband O2 sensor (and gauge). First here is a link to the PLX page: And here is a picture of the unit: Description of the interfaces: 1) 12V power input 2) 4 Prong Analog Clip 3) Termination Jumper 4) Serial RX Plug (In) 5) Serial TX Plug (Out) 6) Sensor Input Clip Picture of the unit installed in the car. I chose to install it next to the PermaTune CDI box. Cook This Not That Skinny Comfort Foods Pdf To Word. I have installed the gauge in the engine compartment temporarily, but here is what it looks like with the unit on. There's not a whole lot to this. I forgot to take pictures because I was in a bit of a hurry that day.

I went to Harbor Freight and picked up an O2 sensor socket for a 3/8' socket. Came home, jacked the car up. Removed the old O2 sensor and installed the Bosch wideband O2 sensor that came with the PLX unit. I had to take off the heat shield around the cat but that's no big deal. As you can see, there is a big fat connector on the end of the Bosch unit. I was desperately trying to figure out how to get that big fat connector through the tiny grommet the wire from the old O2 sensor went through.

Then I had what alcoholics refer to as a moment of clarity. There is a rubber flap between the engine tin and the body just above the hole the wire from the old O2 sensor used to go through. I was able to just push the new O2 sensor through that flap. Done and done. Next I had to decide where to mount the sensor module. The unit comes with a bazillion linear feet of wiring to connect the O2 sensor to the module.